The fiercest fashion models of color are not coming out of the top New York agencies like Ford, Elite or Wilhelmina. As a matter of fact, they aren't coming out of New York or the USA, period. 

Every season there is a latest "look" for models and where in the world they're coming from. We saw the invasion of the Russian beauties. Then there was the Brazilian invasion. We've seen a burst of African and Slavic models. London and Paris have also had their day. Now, the industry is forced to reckon with the Caribbean beauties coming out of Jamaica.

In actuality, Jamaican models have always made inroads through their fashion industry. Think of Grace Jones back in the day and noted Jamaican stars like Lois Samuels, Gail O'Neill, and Naomi Campbell (who's from London with Jamaican roots). More recently, there's Nadine Willis, Jaunel McKenzie, Carla Campbell and Nicole Vassel. Now the hot new Jamaican girls like Nakeisha, Yashmine and Canise are rocking the international fashion scene, doing runway shows and advertising campaigns all over the world.

The most successful Black models on a global scale are all coming out of a small agency, Saint International, housed in Kingston, Jamaica. Founded and owned by young entrepreneur Deiwight Peters, Saint International has turned out the top girls. "We are the first to send Jamaican models to work the world market," Deiwight said. "Saint International is the most networked agency, based on the number of models we have working the market?London, Paris, Milan, South Africa, New York, Singapore, Atlanta, Miami and Chicago. All this is done from Jamaica."

Celebrated New York fashion stylist Ty Ron Mayes, who has been working with Saint International models since the start of the agency in 2000 said, "What I like about Saint International is that they have cutting-edge models that achieve editorial and campaign success. That makes it easy for me coming to Jamaica as a stylist and photographing girls who've done Donna Karan, D&G campaigns and such...."

Deiwight worked as a savings and loan officer for five years in a Kingston bank after studying management at the University of the West Indies. "It was a weird time when all these Jamaican models came to New York and nothing happened. Rodney Harris, who's now director of the men's division at Elite, owned Slamm Model Management in Atlanta at that time. He was very, very instrumental in getting me started in the industry. He taught me how to create the package that would work for the international market," recalled Deiwight of his humble beginnings in 2000.
Deiwight continued: "My first models of success were Clodine Luton, who did the Dark & Lovely campaign, and Genevieve Henry in Chicago. With their success there was no turning back. We packaged them properly, the hot photographers got them to Miami and their local careers were launched. You have to define your models' image. We got the proper styling and got them tested with good photographers, then we decided to further my networking and went to Atlanta. There we learned that South Africa had a vibrant fashion market. Topco in South Africa signed them within a month and they went to South Africa to start their international career."

Deiweight said that he learned to appreciate the skill factor of photographers who work with major magazines, top models and agencies. He also credits stylist Ty Ron Mayes: "Ty Ron is so instrumental in the growth of Saint. He gets the fashion esthetic as it ought to be. What I see between the photographer's energy and his styling works tremendously. It's an essential part of this business and Ty Ron really works to define my vision for the international market."

Boasting a cabine of some 50 models, Saint International holds regular model searches throughout Jamaica. Winners are brought to the city and groomed for shows and appearances before hitting the overseas market. Apart from the physical attributes (5 foot-6 to 6-feet tall, a thin form, 34-24-34, high cheekbones and great skin), Deiwight emphasizes the personality aspect of the models: "They must show that they are adaptable to various situations and be very aware. Even potential models must develop a sense of style and they must be passionate about their profession. Modeling is no different from any other job. If you want to be a lawyer or doctor you come out of the university and start an internship. It takes time and you must understand the process. It's the same thing with modeling. You must understand the process from castings to bookings, arrive on time for your appointments and be professional. You must be able to articulate your story and get your feet wet in the process."

Over the years, Saint International has formed alliances with some of the world's top agencies, designers and publications. Model agents and bookers are constantly on the prowl in Jamaica and in Jamaican communities in the US, Canada and London looking for new faces. "Jamaican models are amazing; this is the Jamaican moment," said Phil McGowan, a model booker at one of New York's leading agencies, IMG, and home of top models Tyra Banks, Alek Wek and Liya Kebede.

Written by Walter Greene

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